Haute Joaillerie: Secrets, symbols & escape for Chopard, Dior and Chanel

The big houses have exhibited their new haute joaillerie designs during Haute Couture week in Paris. Symbols, secrets and of course, extraordinary work for these new sets of jewels which light up Place Vendôme. Beginning with a visit to Chopard and their new ‘Precious’ collection, designed by Caroline Scheufele, Co-President and Artistic Director of Chopard, this time showing their jewelry in parallel to Haute Couture, evoking the exceptional style and delicacy of a dress, where purity blends with the radiance of the stones, dominated by emeralds, sapphires and rubies. For example this exceptional necklace, composed of seven pear-cut emeralds, unfolding into diamond guipure on the décolletage.Escape is equally at the heart of the new Dior collection designed by Victoire de Castellane with a new chapter that this time evokes a secret Versailles. Here we find jewelry that contains a multitude of mysteries with hidden drawers and concealed money boxes, containing symbols dear to Christian Dior, such as the clover or the heart. Always with a baroque spirit blended with evocative romanticism with our favourite: this signet ring in yellow gold, composed of yellow diamonds, pink sapphires and lacquer. Finally the symbols that stay strong at Chanel, with the return of the Lion in a collection that also emphasizes the chain and colour. Interview with Marianne Etchebarne:We come back to this theme with great force in January 2018 through the theme ‘the spirit of the lion’, back to stronger, more powerful, more modern themes as all of this collection is associated with the theme of the chain, which is a strong theme at Chanel but which is also symbolic of strength, also a particularity with this collection, is the appearance of colour.There’s yellow sapphires but also ‘Umba’ sapphires (from the Umba Valley) notably seen in the ‘passionate’ set where you have a beautiful imperial topaz and a set of ‘Umba’ sapphires which have very red tones, creating the flamboyancy of a lion. The ‘Dazzling’ set, where you have a whole series of yellow beryl which come from the same block of natural stone and that allows us to have a perfect unity of colour, all of the beryl jewels have been cut one by one and mounted on the bezel, each one made to measure for each stone. Another particularity of this collection is that we have the full face of the lion but also a lot of work with the lion’s profile. Music royalty free: Bandit & Nikit

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