Carlin Group:NYファッションウィーク SS16 – Carlin analyse
The spring-summer 16 fashion week of New-York opened and closed , thanks to 2 catwalk events we are not likely to forget : the superbe show of Givenchy, staged on an obscur enbankment of the Westside Highway (instead of a Parisian salon) and the fabulous show of Marc Jacobs at the Ziegfeld, an old cinema much appreciated by the New-Yorkers, in a kind of cabaret ambiance.
Long playsuits, with lace inserts, women walking like in a dream and where night encounters the day in chic and easy layering: the « fashion-sleepwalker » gives a new perspective to the romantic trend, fitting into a contemporary and dreamy vision.
Even Alexander Wang who normally is not a lacy nightdress type, got down to it. But in this style-exercise it’s Riccardio Tisci at Givenchy who calls the shots, with an hypnotic collection, both sensual and mystic.
And what if fashion became something fun, something glamorous, decadent and exciting? With less marketing and more talent? Mister Jacobs and the Mulleavy sisters at Rodarte have, each in their own way, proposed a fashion both nostalgic and joyful, festal and truly theatrical. And above all a profound personal vision of their profession.
Decoration, glitter, glamour in an Old Hollywood way; the magic of the great stars of cinema and American entertainment, between 40’s et 70’s references for a trip on planet fashion.
We are still not able to get over it.
We could be sure, after the latest Resort collections without a doubt: summer will be placed under the Latin influence, it’s confirmed. Red, black, dots, embroideries, scarlet flowers, everything ‘s there.
Effects of skirts and frills, marked waists, strong character, the Latina in wasp version hits the stage with a confident walk. Even at McQ Alexander Mc Queen the black and red dots can be seen, that is to say…!
Thomas Zylberman, Womenswear designer
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