Geraldine Wharry:シュールな二面性 – AW 2016 ランウェイ
Across cities, menswear and womenswear, we saw Fall Winter 2016 catwalk collections enter a humorous and poetic sphere of design, looking to surrealistic proportions inspired by cartoon characters, and modular structures taken from toy design. Adult naivety, spontaneity as well as an unkempt aesthetic reflected a desire to subvert and question the status quo.
The result was both whimsical and rebellious, offering a fresh view on classics ranging from tailoring to denim and signaling the fresh blood streaming through the world of fashion with brands such as Vêtements, Jacquemus and Off White.
Distortion is a key theme, experimenting with exaggerated proportions bulging out, turning the ugly into pretty and shifting the perception. Designers use the idea of Siamese twins as a vehicle to express duality.
The cut and paste collage concept is absolutely key this season and draws on the Surrealist cadavre exquis as well as the idea of garments suspended in time, accidents and playing on proportions, disturbing the viewer’s sense of balance and poking fun at fashion.
Visual Deconstruction is key to the thought process here. Channeling collage art, designers contemporize classic notions of the blazer and suit through interference, creating tension between added and subtracted parts.
Bringing audacity and customizability into the mix, designers upgrade everyday styles by pairing the casual with the smart, the outer with the under layer into one garment. Everything is up for questioning in terms of lengths and fabric. The key is asymmetry and a modular/ d.i.y. aesthetic.
Denim classics are subverted and off-balance, designed with asymmetrical front openings shifting the wearer’s sense of practicality and ease of use.
Extending the concept of disheveled tailoring and school girl/boy looks, this silhouette is about humour and bad-taste-meets-good-taste.
Prints and patterns are spliced, playing on the idea of twinning and polarity. Garments are split halfway as if two pieces have been sewn back together, with the notion of “opposite’s attract”.
To download your sample of our extensive Fall Winter 2016 report click here
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